So i am writing this as my best friend insisted i should start writing some of the crazy goings on i encounter in India down, she's right,i have been coming here for 4 years and have plenty to share! Im currently on a 5 hour drive back to the apartment i share with my fiancé and (temporarily) his mum, in Pune (pronounced poo-nay or poo-na) in Maharashtra, not too far from Mumbai. We've just been to Shridi to see the temple devoted to Sai Baba. Now i don't know much about Sai Baba, until last week i was confusing him with Guru Nanak (founder of Sikhism)! What i do know is Sai Baba was a kind of modern day jesus, he only died in 1919, he performed loads of miracles like making fire out of water and healing the sick. He believed in there being a place for all religions and not discriminating due to caste (amen to that) he lived in a mosque but is buried in a temple so is worshipped by hindus and muslims alike, so far i am impressed! We set off at 8am after a big mum cooked breakfast of parathas and chai (sooo good but sooo bad for my waistline) and stopped off at a temple on the way where we spent 250rs (£3) on a load of offerings including mustard oil, marigolds, a piece of black cloth, a coconut and a little black doll to ward off evil spirits. 10 minutes later we were on our way out of the temple minus our little stash. I just don't get it! We walked in, gave our offerings and left. I understand there is a lot here i don't know about and i do really respect the hindu religion, but what a waste of money! Wouldn't it be better spent on food for the beggars outside? And i think I'm right to assume the offerings just get resold... I mean where do all these coconuts and dolls go?i am very conscious i may sound like some arrogant firangi (english person) who thinks she knows it all, i don't for one minute think that, I'm merely observing.
Anyway, we then set off for Shridi, on the way we passed loads of stalls selling sugar cane juice, they grind the cane by placing it between two metal wheels attached to a rope, attached to a bull who they hit on the bum so he walks round in circles, grinding the cane. I asked why this was happening, cows are worshipped but was told well this is a bull.... Ahhh right. Needless to say, i didn't partake in the juice!
We arrived at Shridi around 1pm in the blazing afternoon heat, we couldn't get our car near the temple it was SO busy so we walked the kilometre to the temple, stopping on the way to deposit our shoes as they are strictly forbidden inside the premises. Once we are about 200m away, queues start forming, i say "queues" but it was a bit of a free for all with people pushing in all over the place and no one seemed to care. My fiancé jokes that I'm from the "queue K" as we are so good at queuing.... I bloody missed that today! We finally got into the gates and were shouted at by security guards with obvious power complexes to get in line, i obliged as they had massive sticks in their hands.... We were then sent through a series of 4 rooms which were more like cattle markets, where we had to slowly shuffle up and down through a series of lines divided by metal barriers. It was hot, it was stinky and the floor was revolting, covered in manky petals (more offerings) rubbish and dirt from peoples feet. I tried really hard not to think about verrucas. The atmosphere was pretty cool, a bit like queuing for a ride at alton towers mixed with being at a football match what with all the chanting for old Sai Baba. I was concentrating too hard on not making eye contact with any of the hundreds of people staring at me, along with trying not to pass out from the heat to really take it all in. We finally got to the main event,people were wailing, throwing themselves on the floor, chanting, and running towards something..... It was a statue. A nice one, its really famous but literally just a statue. Surrounded by security. We were allowed in for about 30 seconds and were shoved along by the security. Im not sure who they were there to protect really.... My fiancés mum was really happy and overjoyed to see the statue, so it was nice to see what we had been through was kind of worth it. I get that the statue represents an amazing man loved by millions, but i couldn't help but wonder, would he want his devotees to go through all that to get to his shrine? As we left a man grabbed my arm, he had one leg and was begging. It was at this point i realised the bag of dried nuts, fruits, sweets and rice we had taken as an offering was still in my fiancés hand. We gave it to the old man, i think that was the one part of the whole experience Sai baba would have been happy with.
After that ordeal we went and got our shoes, couldn't find Sushils so left them behind (!) and went for a very late (5pm) lunch. Popped to the loo with my future MiL first, she came out heaving shaking her head saying "bohot gandha" (very dirty) again and again.... There was a great big poo on the floor. I knew all those music festivals would make me a stronger person! I managed to brave it.
I feel like i need to conclude with some kind of lesson learnt from my day trip... I think they should teach "queuing" in schools here, but i also need to learn to appreciate in a country of 1.2 billion personal space is fairly limited. Oh, and if i was a god/saint/guru/baba i'd like you all to keep your money and not waste it on twentysecond hand coconuts.
Fabulous first post! Another soon please.... x
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